dinsdag 25 januari 2011

Chennai - New Delhi

Sunday night, my last night in Mamallapuram. I had to go to the ATM and Mukesh (from the coffee house) offered to take me on the motorbike. Well, Indians are born on a motorbike so I don't need to explain to you how they drive. But Mukesh promised to take it slow and so I figured 'What the heck!'. It was nice, sunset, a cool breeze and he ended up taking me to all the sights. I hadn't done any visits because I felt too short on energy, but he insisted on showing me everything before I left. Finally he also took me to a nearby fishermen's village where he grew up. It was sunset and everybody was helping to prepare the nets. The streets were covered in them. What a unique, peaceful sight! And thank God I got to see Mamallapuram!
Monday morning like a thief in the night I got up at 4 AM. My taxi, an old Ambassador, was waiting and took me to Chennai Railwaystation. The drive was nice, morning was coming and the city was slowly waking up. My train was on time and at 6:40 AM we left for Delhi. I had to share a compartiment with 2 Indian men and an Indian woman, all traveling alone. Mind you, her and me, we were the only women in our compartiment so I was happy to have her there. And then... 28 hours. What to do? Well, I had breakfast, took a nap, had lunch, took a nap, had tea, read my book, had dinner, read my book, tried to sleep, got up, had a sneaky cigarette through the open door together with my neighbour (for you, Devika!), and finally fell asleep, got up at 6, had breakfast, read my book... and at 11AM we finally arrived! This wasn't all that bad. A bit boring, but the sleeping part, I had no problem with that! ;-) Mind you, right now I'm sitting on this chair but my head feels like it's still on the train, wiggeling a bit...
And here I am, back in Delhi, Pajar Ganj, Main Bazaar, Rak Hotel, room 102! It's still the same and it feels a bit like 'coming home'. The smell... a mixture of fumes, incense, dirt and a hint of fresh air in the distance. The sound of cars, horns, constructionworkers... and just for me, they added the noise of generators because again there was a black out. Oh yeah, I'm back in Pajar Ganj! A dirty, little, backpack ghetto! I arrived here the first time in Februari 2010 and I almost cried. I wanted to go back home. But today it's the place that symbolises my 'discovery of India'. It's where I set my first steps and where I first found out that 'India is yellow', and it still is to me! I feel safe here, it's familiar. I know exactly what things cost, I know exactly how to bargain, I know exactly where the best places are for lassi's, I know exactly where to go for Himalaya-products, I even know exactly where to go for the cheapest alcohol... Haha! Yep, I WANTED to come back here before leaving, because I have to say goodbye! And just to add to my melancholic feeling, the hotel gave me the same room I was in the first time I came, a year ago... haha! As if they knew!
I came back at a very convenient time. Once again I managed to find myself in the middle of some festivities. Tomorrow it's Republic Day. India celebrates the beginning of the Republic of India. The security meassurements are huge! Militaries have put up posts on every corner, with sandbags they made little holes and they park inside with their automatic guns. Some streets are already completely blocked and kept empty and others are vehicle-free. It's like being at war! A bit strange, but then again India doesn't easily surprise me anymore... ;-) There will be a parade tomorrow and maybe I'll go and have a look. I'm not sure if it's such a good idea to go stand in the masses here, but I'll see. It sure would be a unique experience! Haha!
And all through my trip I've been guided by Good Karma. It's surprising to realize afterwards just how lucky I have been.
*First of all I am privileged already just to be able to be here for that long.
*Second, every place I wanted to go, I visited. Even though it was very busy and trains and busses were sold out, we managed to get wherever! I guess that must be Good Karma, seeing the amount of people who didn't get to go anywhere.
*Third, I haven't really been sick. Yeah, I had two days of cramps and those bacteria. But that's not sick! Sick is when you have a fever, and pain, and you have to stay in bed... I wasn't sick!
*Next, I came here on my own, but was NEVER without company! And on top of that, I made some real friends!! Westerns AND Indians! That is Good Karma! It's hard enough back home, but here that is just luck!
*I've had amazing weather, only 1 day of rain in Delhi and one day in Ooty. All the other days were sunny and hot, even now in Delhi. It's colder, but the sun is out and on the terrace of the hotel it's pretty hot!
*I saw some pretty amazing things; a waterbuffalo being born in Hampi, a dolphin before the coast of Candolim, the sunset AND full moonrise at the same time, that fishermen's village no tourist ever comes...
* I laughed like a kid with "the buy 1, get 1 free at the Opinion Shack!", Advocado milkshakes, Pilgrims on the train, "Biscuits...Chai..."...
*And last but not least, I stayed safe!! I had a taxidriver in Goa that fell asleep, but I managed to wake him up in time before we crashed. The busdriver between Pondycherry and Mamallapuram was obviously on drugs driving like a madman, but I got to my destination without even pissing my pants! ;-)
Yeah, it's been a hell of a ride here in India! And I don't know when or how, but I do know one thing for sure... I'll be back!!! ;-))

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