Delhi - Hong Kong - China

I left India two weeks ago and as expected that didn't go without ups and downs, extreme pleasure mixed with extreme anger... but I'll save you the details. Let's just say I left Delhi the way you're supposed to leave it, the way India is! Haha!

On Saturday morning I arrived in Hong Kong; bright lights, big city! But what struck me the most was just how clean everything was there! Waw! Not even any cigarette butts on the street. Well, you would have to be crazy to throw it on the street because the fine is 150 euro. But it seems to work!

Also I got to experience the friendliness of the people within the first hour after arriving. My plane landed at 6 in the morning and I knew I had to take a bus to Tsim Sha Tsui, the neightbourhood where the hotel is. But typically me, I forgot to write down the address or a description of the route. So what to do at 7 in the morning? I finally found an internet shop and when I entered it was packed with teenagers who apparently had been playing online games since the night before. Yep, it was a special friday-night-deal. You play 12 hours for only 30 HKdollar. Some of them were sleeping behind the computer, others were still going strong! The manager asked me WHY I would want to use a computer that early and when I explained I had to find my hotel, he looked up everything for me, wrote it down, pointed it out on a map and told me where to go. I spent a few more minutes talking to him and when I left, I didn't have to pay him at all. He was happy to help! Wow, this definitely is NOT India any more! ;-D

I stayed a week in Hong Kong and it was the perfect "break"! After 3 months of traveling on my own (except the times I really got to know people), I got a visitor! Yep, my friend Niema came to visit me from Belgium. Seeing a familiar face was amazing and just for a week, it made me feel a little bit more like home. And though we didn't do that much, for me it was the perfect mixture of pleasure, culture and lazyness. A real holiday! Yep, I didn't even have to talk to new people, I talked to Niema every now and then so he wouldn't get bored, but there was no pressure... haha! ;-) 

Yes, maybe I should explain myself.... we TRIED to do a lot, but stuff got in the way with our plans every now and then. It was Chinese New Year and so everybody has time off to spend with their families. And Chinese love doing all the stuff tourists do, so the crowds were huge everywhere we went. We skipped the Buddha on Lantau Island and went to the beach instead. We skipped Macau because ferries were overbooked. But in the end, I had fun and enjoyed every minute of my "break"!

 

After a week it was time for me to 'hit the road' again and so after saying goodbye to Niema (sniff), I was on my way! I crossed the border to China on Saturday night and my first stop was Shenzhen. A bit sad to be on my own again, I soon found new company when I arrived at the Youth Hostel. And after a beer I fell asleep like a baby!

Shenzhen was worth while. It's a strange city. In just 30 years the number of inhabitants went from 800.000 to 14 million today! So this is one of those 'new cities'. It's a mixture of modern architecture, capitalist surroundings and worker neighbourhoods. Most people move to Shenzhen because of work and they live in big skyscrapers, all piled up together. The stretch of land between Shenzhen and Guangzhou is about 200 kilometres of factory after factory. It is one of the most industrialised areas in China. My next stop was Guangzhou, so on the train there I got to see that street of factories. A bit weird to think a government can just move people around, but on the other hand the people themselves don't seem to mind. At least, that's what they tell me...They all seem to be very, very proud of China as a nation. Maybe you can't critisize the government, but apart from that they consider China one of the most free countries in the world. And for them the most important thing is that everybody is equal! Well, I haven't made up my mind yet about China. For that I have a lot more traveling to do, but it is very refreshing to be treated equal again as a woman! After India that is for me the biggest change here in China. People smile at me and talk to me and invite me... I feel good here!

I'm now still in Guangzhou which is surprisingly a very interesting city. I had to pass through herre to go to my next destination, Hainan. But I decided a few days and I'm glad I did. Maybe because of the Asian Games that were held here a little while ago, but this city is clean and friendly and the architecture is super! There are old parts with the typical hutongs (little Chinese houses), there is a European area with beautiful, old, colonial buildings and you have the new modern buildings and lightshows... at night I took a river cruise and you don't even have enough eyes to see everything that is going on on the banks! Apart from that I visited White Cloud Mountain and that little bit of exercise did me good! I went to the biggest, Buddhist temple here, an old familly-village and the tea market. There is soo much to see and to do, and only so many hours in a day. I feel like there is more to explore, but tonight I'm taking the nighttrain. The weather turned really cold again here in Guangzhou and so I'm really happy that by tomorrow morning I'll be in Hainan. The most tropical part of China and with the freshest air! Finally!

Chennai - New Delhi

Sunday night, my last night in Mamallapuram. I had to go to the ATM and Mukesh (from the coffee house) offered to take me on the motorbike. Well, Indians are born on a motorbike so I don't need to explain to you how they drive. But Mukesh promised to take it slow and so I figured 'What the heck!'. It was nice, sunset, a cool breeze and he ended up taking me to all the sights. I hadn't done any visits because I felt too short on energy, but he insisted on showing me everything before I left. Finally he also took me to a nearby fishermen's village where he grew up. It was sunset and everybody was helping to prepare the nets. The streets were covered in them. What a unique, peaceful sight! And thank God I got to see Mamallapuram!
Monday morning like a thief in the night I got up at 4 AM. My taxi, an old Ambassador, was waiting and took me to Chennai Railwaystation. The drive was nice, morning was coming and the city was slowly waking up. My train was on time and at 6:40 AM we left for Delhi. I had to share a compartiment with 2 Indian men and an Indian woman, all traveling alone. Mind you, her and me, we were the only women in our compartiment so I was happy to have her there. And then... 28 hours. What to do? Well, I had breakfast, took a nap, had lunch, took a nap, had tea, read my book, had dinner, read my book, tried to sleep, got up, had a sneaky cigarette through the open door together with my neighbour (for you, Devika!), and finally fell asleep, got up at 6, had breakfast, read my book... and at 11AM we finally arrived! This wasn't all that bad. A bit boring, but the sleeping part, I had no problem with that! ;-) Mind you, right now I'm sitting on this chair but my head feels like it's still on the train, wiggeling a bit...
And here I am, back in Delhi, Pajar Ganj, Main Bazaar, Rak Hotel, room 102! It's still the same and it feels a bit like 'coming home'. The smell... a mixture of fumes, incense, dirt and a hint of fresh air in the distance. The sound of cars, horns, constructionworkers... and just for me, they added the noise of generators because again there was a black out. Oh yeah, I'm back in Pajar Ganj! A dirty, little, backpack ghetto! I arrived here the first time in Februari 2010 and I almost cried. I wanted to go back home. But today it's the place that symbolises my 'discovery of India'. It's where I set my first steps and where I first found out that 'India is yellow', and it still is to me! I feel safe here, it's familiar. I know exactly what things cost, I know exactly how to bargain, I know exactly where the best places are for lassi's, I know exactly where to go for Himalaya-products, I even know exactly where to go for the cheapest alcohol... Haha! Yep, I WANTED to come back here before leaving, because I have to say goodbye! And just to add to my melancholic feeling, the hotel gave me the same room I was in the first time I came, a year ago... haha! As if they knew!
I came back at a very convenient time. Once again I managed to find myself in the middle of some festivities. Tomorrow it's Republic Day. India celebrates the beginning of the Republic of India. The security meassurements are huge! Militaries have put up posts on every corner, with sandbags they made little holes and they park inside with their automatic guns. Some streets are already completely blocked and kept empty and others are vehicle-free. It's like being at war! A bit strange, but then again India doesn't easily surprise me anymore... ;-) There will be a parade tomorrow and maybe I'll go and have a look. I'm not sure if it's such a good idea to go stand in the masses here, but I'll see. It sure would be a unique experience! Haha!
And all through my trip I've been guided by Good Karma. It's surprising to realize afterwards just how lucky I have been.
*First of all I am privileged already just to be able to be here for that long.
*Second, every place I wanted to go, I visited. Even though it was very busy and trains and busses were sold out, we managed to get wherever! I guess that must be Good Karma, seeing the amount of people who didn't get to go anywhere.
*Third, I haven't really been sick. Yeah, I had two days of cramps and those bacteria. But that's not sick! Sick is when you have a fever, and pain, and you have to stay in bed... I wasn't sick!
*Next, I came here on my own, but was NEVER without company! And on top of that, I made some real friends!! Westerns AND Indians! That is Good Karma! It's hard enough back home, but here that is just luck!
*I've had amazing weather, only 1 day of rain in Delhi and one day in Ooty. All the other days were sunny and hot, even now in Delhi. It's colder, but the sun is out and on the terrace of the hotel it's pretty hot!
*I saw some pretty amazing things; a waterbuffalo being born in Hampi, a dolphin before the coast of Candolim, the sunset AND full moonrise at the same time, that fishermen's village no tourist ever comes...
* I laughed like a kid with "the buy 1, get 1 free at the Opinion Shack!", Advocado milkshakes, Pilgrims on the train, "Biscuits...Chai..."...
*And last but not least, I stayed safe!! I had a taxidriver in Goa that fell asleep, but I managed to wake him up in time before we crashed. The busdriver between Pondycherry and Mamallapuram was obviously on drugs driving like a madman, but I got to my destination without even pissing my pants! ;-)
Yeah, it's been a hell of a ride here in India! And I don't know when or how, but I do know one thing for sure... I'll be back!!! ;-))

Pondycherry - Mamallapuram - Animal Farm

I stayed 4 nights in Pondycherry and all I did was walk and talk, walk and talk. Because there is a big French community, there are a lot of Western activities. Galleries, art exhibits, films at the Alliance Francais... lots of fun things to do and so I was never bored. After 2 days, all the solo-women had found each other and we were 5 all together, spending our days just walking, eating and talking.
On Sunday it was "Pongal" which is like a Tamil (or Indian) New Year. It's a time to celebrate the farmers and their harvests. In the rural areas they organise bullfights, cowriding and all sorts of other "fun" farmgames. Now, as you know I'm not that fond of cows and bulls, so I stayed in Pondycherry, together with about a million Indian visitors. It was amazing. I was there already 2 days and it was very relaxing to walk around. But the last day of Pongal everybody came to the city and it was mayhem! The mood was good and everything went by fine. My 'landlord' had told me to be careful because many Indians drink a lot and then they become a bit less nice, but I think it wasn't all that bad. People were really friendly and tried to engage us in their festivities.
I have to say that of all the states I visited so far Tamil Nadu has been the friendliest one. Even the people from the Guest houses and shops are so nice. Their mind is not only on the money. Maybe it's because they have more of it? Because this looks like a richer area. I don't know what it is, but I like it!!
I visited the Sri Aubindao Ashram. It's famous for the yoga and lots of tourists and residents come here because of it. Honestly, it was a bit weird. We went in for a visit that took us five minutes through the courtyard and then through the shop and that was it. All other areas are for residents only. But one thing that caught my attention was the notice board that had a note repeating the 'dress-code'. It started with: "Lately we have noticed that some people neglect their outfit, therefor we call upon you to..." followed by 10 or 12 Rules. Strict rules! Apart from that we also found out that many Guest houses in Pondycherry are managed by the Ashram, but to stay there they evaluate you. Lina stayed in one of those Guest houses and first they told her it was full, then they told her she could stay one night, then three and in the end I think she stayed 5 or 6 nights. But it's like they scan you first to see if you are an appropriate guest. It all feels a bit elite. Hey, they do what they want, but I think it's a complete turnoff! So no Sri Aubindao Ashram for me...
The last day I went to visit Auroville and the MantriMandir. Auroville is a... well... what is it? Is it a village, a city, a neighbourhood, a commune, a sekt... I have no Idea. Let's say it is a "place" right outside Pondycherry where people tried to create a new world. Today you have around 40 communities spread out in that 'place' and they all have their own activities. Some are agricultural entreprises, some manufacture clothes, others food... all of this is for sale in the Auroville shops. You can come and visit Auroville just for the day. It's nice to walk around here, very green and quiet. But you can also come and stay in Auroville. To do that you have to make an appointment for an interview and then they decide whether you can stay or not. Depending on what you would like to do; you stay in one of the communities and you engage yourself in their daily activities. For example, you can stay in one of the 'gardens' and help with the maintenance and the harvest. Some communities ask that you stay a minimum amount of time, going from 2 weeks up to 3 months. Also here, just like in the Ashram, it feels a bit elite. Some communities are quit expensive to stay, others are more for the budget traveller, but they all evaluate you. I guess I can understand if you have a sort of utopia, you want to protect it and you want active, engaged people. Not bums who are trying to find cheap accommodations (and there are plenty of those in India too, unfortunately). Somehow I can understand Auroville and if it wasn't for time, I would want to stay here. Maybe next time...
The main focus for visitors is the Matrimandir, which is the central point, the meditation centre. They refer to it as the Golden Golfball. And it really is... a golden golfball. An amazing building and I would have loved to see the inside. But because of Pongal it was closed and getting an appointment would have taken two more days... I didn't have two more days. I had other places to go to. It's a shame, but at least now I found a perfectly 'sane' reason to come back to India, no?! ;-)
Finally my last night in Pondycherry I had steak, which I was punished for immediately. On my way home there was a blackout (happens all the time) and the bridge I had to cross was dark and blocked by a huge waterbuffalo. Have you seen them? They are HUGE and black and they look like they can crush you in a second. Well, there it was... staring at me...refusing to move aside...maybe it smelled the meat I had? Thank God a little grandma passed. She was only 1m50, but she saved my ass from that beast. She formed a buffer and guided me across the bridge. Seriously, there I am; a strong young woman about 1m72 and I had to be rescued by the tinniest, oldest grandma in India. Haha!
Anyway, the cow didn't have to punish me because I never finished the steak. For a few weeks now I've been feeling a bit low on energy. And when I'm hungry, I eat, but after half a meal I'm full and then I feel sick. Two hours later my meal comes out the other way in a not so healthy consistancy. So sometimes I would skip a meal just because I didn't feel like feeling sick again. I talked about this with an English guy who lives in India (yes, 'shit' is a daily topic among travellers, especially here in India) and he told me to go visit a doctor. Even though I'm not really sick, I have no pain, no fever, no real traveller's diarrhea... but I feel low on energy, don't eat a lot and I'm losing weight (which I have absolutely no problem with because till now I gained a bit). I figured it was the travelling, but after I arrived in Mamallapuram I decided it would be better to go see a doctor and as it turns out it's bacteria. More than one and I could have been carrying them around for weeks now, there's no way of telling. It's not dangerous, but if untreated they absorb all the nutritions and that's when you start feeling tired and low on energy. So I'm on some kind of cure now that consists of 6 different pills, in total 33 pills over 5 days to kill those little bastards!! Yep, I'm killing that animalfarm!! Taking back my energy!
I don't consider myself sick, but yet if I would be sick; Mamallapuram is the place to be then. It's a tinny village just by the sea near Chennai. The tourist area consists of 3 roads and it's full of Guest houses, restaurants and shops. But like I said before, people are so nice here. I spend my days just talking to the guys from the coffee house, the boy who works at one of the shops, the internetman, other tourists... no hassle, no tension! It is the perfect place to rest and regain my energy! Today I spend the afternoon by the pool and that will be my program for the next three days! No more!
On Tuesday I take my last train in India, from Chennai back to Delhi. The end of this first chapter is near and it makes me feel a bit sad. Although I hated India at times, it's been my home these last three months and it's always difficult to leave a place you called 'home'. I know, I still have a 28 hour trainride ahead of me, which is kind of a farewell gift to myself. I want to experience India one more time and there is no better way to do that then torment yourself with a extra long trainride... haha! I'm sure I will enjoy every second of it! And it will bring me back to my lovely Delhi, the place where it all started. The place I arrived at February last year and that made me cry! Yep, I've grown fond of it... bizar, but then again this is 'INCREDIBLE INDIA'!! :-D

Goa - Mangalore - Chennai - Pondycherry

My last days in Goa were a bit weird. I met so many wonderful people and made some real friends. But it was time to say goodbye. The road was calling me! First there was Devika, that was the hardest part. We were traveling together for a month and we were "a damn fine team"! She left in the afternoon and our goodbye went pretty fast so we wouldn't get all emotional. I guess we're both the 'hard' type! Haha! ;-) But I'm sure we'll meet again!
The next day I went to visit Annemie and Patrick in Candolim. One last dinner together and what a dinner that was! They had mozzarella as a starter and then big prawns with garlic on the BBQ. They had been bragging before about their terrace, but now I knew what it was all about. A super night in good company and amazing food! Thanks again guys!
My last day I had lunch with Matthias and the Manali-crew. They're a crazy bunch, but I had fun with them and it made staying in Manali Guest House a very interesting and relaxing time! They all left together to go to Hampi, but I was there before so I had to go my own way. I do think about them and how they are over there in Hampi, but I'm pretty sure they're having a good time!
And last but not least I said goodbye to Chris, Indian style over tea, massala chai! Haha! Well, saying goodbye to him was not that hard because I know he'll come to Belgium this summer. He's not convinced yet, but I know! Haha! Chris, you're reading this? Yeah? Well, stop, NOW you know!!! :-D
And then I was off! Off to Chennai. The direct train only runs once a week on Friday and since I wanted to leave on Monday the travel agent managed to find me an 'alternative route'. Yep, that's what they call it. I call it 'the hard way'. So I had to take a train from Goa to Mangalore. It was gonna leave at 10:30 PM and arrive at 6:30 AM. That's what I was told. The reality was a bit different. The train was late and didn't come until midnight. There I was in the station in the ladies waiting room. I went outside for a minute to smoke a cigarette and when I came back the police were removing a male figure from that waiting room. Apparently he had been doing some 'animal like' things to himself... or something. Anyway, I'm glad I missed that and so I stayed out on the platform. All of a sudden I turn around and this dude comes sneaking up behind me and says 'hi' only 10 centimeters away from my face! Well, I don't like it when they invade my privacy so I yelled "GO AWAY". And that was that, or so I thought. When the train finally arrived I make my way to my coach and when I get on there is a group of 'monkeys' fighting each other to get on the train. In the crowd I loose my shoe and so I yell to calm down, get back... I need my shoe! The group is all sitting down in my compartment. What is going on here? It's time to be tough and so I ask them to calm down and shut up, and who has a ticket and who is not supposed to be there? Thank god, one of them is really friendly and he explains that they are on the waiting list and the conductor made them wait here, but if I want to go to sleep, they will go and sit somewhere else. I'm happy with that and I don't mind them sitting there, but I will go to sleep soon. And then I turn right and there he is... the dude who invaded my privacy on the platform. He points at my backpack and wants me to remove it so he can sit down. Here? Right next to me? Are you kidding? " NO, YOU don't get to sit next to me! Go away!!" And this time he does... forever, because I didn't see him again! After 15 minutes I'm up in my bed and I set my alarm for 6 o'clock, Thank God I overhear a conversation saying we will be arriving at 4:30 AM. What? Only 4 hours for sleeping... pfff, short night! On top of that my stomach is finally upset. After 2 months of nothing, it decides to get all hostile on me right now! Worst timing.
At 4:40AM we arrive in Mangalore. Well, outside Mangalore because no one told me there are 3 railway stations in Mangalore. I'm tired, my stomach hurts, it's dark... so I decide to stay in the station until it gets light. If I go to town now, everything will be closed, so the safest place at this hour is in the station in front of the station manager's office. There were drunks, dogs, a 15-minute blackout, but I managed to sleep a bit wrapped in my blanket on my backpack. When I wake up it's light and the sun is rising! A man just dropped of his family and offers to share a rickshaw into town. He negotiates the price and even insists on paying. I did pay half, but it was a nice man without any other motive than to be nice! I find myself a room for the day and after sleeping and a shower I head into town. It's so clean here and everybody is nice! Really, people are just friendly and they don't want anything from you. Rickshaws use their meter without you having to ask them. The travel agent gave me the correct information without charging me anything. This is an amazing place! If I had more time I would have stayed, but unfortunately I have another night train ahead. This one leaves at 9:30 PM and will arrive in Chennai at 3:30 PM. Only 18 hours... piece of cake!
I get there on time and the train leaves on time. This time I'm in the women's compartment and the Indian railway take that very serious! There is a police officer right next to it. And twice someone tried to sleep on the one empty bed in our compartment, the conductor and the police were there in an instant to remove them. Amazing! Yep, I closed my eyes and slept. Except from running to the toilet every 2-3 hours the ride was smooth and at 4PM we arrive in Chennai. I check in my hotel and even though it looks like a cell, 2 by 3 meters with white tiles all around, it has a TV and that is all I need now. A banana, water (my stomach) and Television!! "Moulin Rouge"! Oooh, I made it! Haha. :-D
I get outside the next day but my stomach is still upset and Chennai is such a big city, that I decide to spend the day in a shopping mall. First time in India, but today I need it. A clean, cool place. It only takes me 2 rickshaws and one fight to get there, no I'm not in Mangalore anymore, but I really enjoyed that! And again I make it an early night in front of my TV... haha, it's the little things that make you happy sometimes! ;-)
Okay, my stomach is better and today is the day that I leave Chennai to go to Pondycherry. First I have to make it to the bus station. Rickshaw drivers are yelling at me to go with them, they tell me it's 20 kilometers out of town, blablabla... finally a shopkeeper comes outside and tells me that I can take a bus too. That I don't have to use a rickshaw drivers, because I will pay too much. Right in front of them he tells me all of this! Amazing! Honest, in your face! Haha! Well, the bus it is. Number 27B. 27B must be the busiest freaking bus in Chennai! And I get on with my backpack. It's hell. I'm standing in the middle, nothing to hold on to, and I'm being pushed from one side to the other. You know those metal balls in those plastic games? Kids have to get the ball in the middle? Well, that's what I was! A metal ball! Jezus! And all you can do, is let go! Just let go and try not to fall! Finally a man has to get off and offers me his seat. So I get down with my backpack, but the space it too narrow for me AND the backpack. So I try to get back up to remove my backpack, but everybody insists on me staying put... they do it out of friendliness. They want me to sit down, but damned, they don't realize that being squashed like this is hardly comfortable... Now that they are being friendly and caring, their timing is a bit wrong. But I stay put and manage to find a way to make it work.
Next is the bus to Pondycherry. It only takes me half an hour to find it. Chennai bus station is huge and you see signs everywhere. I knew where the Police was, and the Pharmacy, and the bookshop... but no signs telling you where to go for Pondycherry. Finally I ask the Police, because I know how to find THEM and they are our 'best friend, always happy to help'. Haha, this one is friendly and shows me the way. He should change jobs... too nice to be a police officer and too intelligent. ;-)
The bus is packed, as usual. And they manage to put me next to two fat mamas and a fat baby. I had half a seat and people stepping on my toes on the other side. But I'm experienced now, so all I need is my music and I disconnect with my body for 4 hours. And here I am, in Pondycherry and it is beautiful!!! It used to be a French settlement. So the Architecture is amazing! I didn't find a guest house yesterday, everything was full. But thanks to an older French man I now have an apartment for only 500 roepies. It's beautiful, if this was in Belgium I would buy it! And the food... well, this is one thing the French left behind here, Thank God. The food is amazing! I had baguette for breakfast, real baguette! Wow! And in fact, I have to go now, because they're waiting for me and I'm pretty sure tonight is gonna be 'steak night'!! Joehoe!
Bon appetit!!

Indian reality; what is NOT in the brochure...

So, I've been in India a little over two months now and you would think that I'm not that easily surprised anymore. You know, been there....done that! But the truth is that everything that shocked me 2 months ago... well, that doesn't shock me anymore, but it annoys me. The best way to deal with it, to make it bearable, is just to laugh about it. Unfortunately I loose my patience every now and then and then I get really angry. I have little respect left for Indians and that shows sometimes in my behavior. But it's really hard to have respect for a population that doesn't even know the meaning of the word 'respect'. So I'm what they call "toughened up". Yep, toughened up Emma... I don't think I like her that much and I hope me being here so long doesn't inflict any permanent damage. 

Some examples of daily life in India and how this world works;

PEE

The little girl in my guest house is not wearing diapers and so every now and then she pees her pants and leaves a puddle of pee on the floor of the inner courtyard. Now, do you think that there is anyone in this family that bothers to clean that up? Of course not, it's only pee! Seriously, it's only a very smelly puddle of pee right next to their garden swing where they sit down to eat. No big deal! And the guests? Well, we only walk barefoot around the courtyard so it's not like we have to touch it with our hands, only with our feet. No big deal! 

TRASH

So I'm walking down the street, being all relaxed and all of a sudden... a pile of dirt is flying through the air. Some household is cleaning up and they just throw their filth out on the street. It's like the middle ages! 

But the worst I've seen so far was yesterday. Just outside the city of Mapusa I saw a stream, a little stream of water that is officially NOT a sewer, but it looked like one anyway. Next to it a young woman was kneeling down, bringing her cup in the water and... she was drinking it! She was drinking water from a stream that looked and smelled like a sewer! Now I know there's a lot of pollution and I know there's a lot of poverty... but now I also know how the two are connected! Indian Government is polluting the country in the hope that poor people will get contaminated and sick and they will die and then there will be no more poverty?!

BUS

I took a bus from Anjuna to Mapusa and that takes about 25 minutes. We were all packed up in there like sardines in a tin. Now imagine; it's 35 degrees, the sun is shining, people are sweating, smelling and they yell at each other in order to get on the bus. Standing passengers allowed is 11, but I think we were close to 20. Now all of a sudden there was a strange burning smell so the conductor had to open the front hatch from the inside of the bus while the bus was still driving... As soon as he opened the hatch smoke came out and obviously the engine was overheated. Do you think this bus pulled over? Of course not! The smoke might be bothering the sardines in the back but that doesn't bother the driver, so he just kept going.  And the conductor pored water over the engine. The first cups of water he pored literally vaporised instantly, so he kept that water coming and did so the whole way till we arrived in Mapusa. I've seen it so many times that behind the driver's seat there is a bucket of water. But until yesterday I had no idea what it was for. Now I know, it's the special 'engine-cooldown-bucket', a great and very important tool to have in India!

TAXI

So for the first week I was in Goa I always used the same taxi-driver. His name is Sudha and he lives close to the flat I was staying in. He was not cheap, but not as expensive as some of the others so I told him that he was charging me 'very good price' for him, but that I would pay because I knew I could count on him. First mistake; NEVER count on anyone here!! But he seemed really nice and pretty open. Every time we would have little talks and he even invited me to his house to meet his sister who does Mehndi (henna-tattoos). Second mistake; if they offer you something personal... it's not because they want to be friendly, it's because they can make money! Anyway, I liked Sudha and I KNOW I payed him well!

So we went to Palolim for 2 days and when we were on our way to the bus to come back to Anjuna, there was Sudha. He had just dropped off some people and he was now heading back. It's a two hour drive and off course it's not good to go back empty. BUT I also know they charge that 'coming back empty' to the client. So he offered to bring us back for 500 as to what I immediately replied; "250?". He said yes, nodded and didn't even try to bargain with me. I went to get the others and when I got back 10 minutes later, he was driving away with two other tourists in the back, and without stopping he pointed at me and yelled : "YOU GO BY BUS!!" That asshole! We had a deal, and he bailed on me. And for what? For a few roepies more. I understand that he wants to make money, but he didn't have to talk to me like that! He could have bargained with me. He could have told me that he would be looking for other better paying customers. I don't know... but this was uncalled for! And not to mention the business he is loosing because of it! The flat we are in is pretty far from everything so having a reliable 'taxi man' is a big asset. This way they always know who to call and Sudha would have regular work, even outside season. Now after my story they're not gonna use him anymore. I was his reference, but he stuffed up! Well, this is a fine example of what could have been a 'win-win' situation, but turned into a 'loose-loose' situation. And Sudha will never know!

FOOD

The last couple of days I've seen a few living corpses walking around. Stomach problems are very common here and I've seen what it does. People are sweating, feverish, in pain, drying out... it's not good. They heal after antibiotics, so it's not like they will die, but it's suffering! Now, we all know that when you come to India you have to be prepared. People get sick here. It's common knowledge. But I don't understand why a restaurant would prepare food that has not been kept properly... when they KNOW that it will make us sick. This is Goa, tourists have been coming here for decades, EVERYBODY knows that our stomaches are not that tough! Yet, they keep feeding it us. And why? To make money. Well, it's not only wrong, it's also extremely disrespectful!

MEN

I've taken about 10 buses that last week and what annoys me is to see how women and children are standing up, getting squashed while young strong men sit down on the seats. There really is no respect for women when in reality they are the ones who make India. THEY build the roads, literally road workers in India are most times women! THEY decorate India and make it the colorful place that attracts so many tourists. THEY give birth to the children and ensure a future. THEY feed the men in India so they can keep doing absolutely nothing. Anyway, women are the heart of India but they get no respect for that! Sometimes I just want to kick to little punks'butts and tell them to fuck off. They contribute NOTHING to this society, unless you count lying, being lazy, poisoning westerns, sitting on their asses, getting drunk... a contribution?! 

But on top of having to stand... they all get grabbed. There's always some sexually frustrated one that thinks he can touch butts and tits. And they don't try so much with me because they know I would slap them! But I see them do it also with Indian women. Disgusting, they should castrate them! 

Thank you for listening to me 'wining'! I'm having this love-hate affair with India and today the 'hate-part' is wining the match. Anyway, from today on it's only 18 more days and I'm leaving India. But you want to know the worst part? As much as I hate India and I get angry about everything written above and more... I am gonna be sad to go! How fucked up is that?! ;-)) 

Goa? Yeah, Goa!!

I'm still here in Goa. I didn't really want to come back here, but now I am starting to enjoy it. I know my way around, have some friends here and there... so Goa is like little India to me now. We are cruising around in a 50's Fiat Convertible from Devika's parents and except for the times our Betty refuses to start, it's heaven.
Yeah, Betty broke down on the road this afternoon. We thought she was hungry ans so we gave her some petrol but still she refused to go. We thought she was thirsty and so we gave her some water but still nothing. Finally we had to push her to get a little burp and there she went again! Thank God! Me and two Indian guys pushed her over a hill and I can assure you; at lunchtime in the blazing sun... that's not very healthy. But Betty rewarded us and hasn't stopped working since then! Yihaa! ;-)
New Year was 'special', to say the least. Last week we were sleeping a lot ever since we arrived in Goa. A few days ago when we got up Devika had this lump in her neck and after a visit to the doctor it turned out she had a throat infection. Me, I didn't have an infection like that... yet. But 'sleep' was the only thing on our minds. And boy, did we sleep! If it hadn't been for the sun stinging my eyes during sunset (yeah, I can see the sunset from my bed...) we might even have slept through New Year. But we got up at 6PM, kept ourselves awake till midnight and after looking at the fireworks in the distance... we went straight back to bed. On top of the tiredness and soar throat I also had stomach cramps and diarrhea (or is that too much information) so I didn't even have dinner on New Years Eve...Yep, we wanted to do something 'different' for New Years and that's exactly what we got: 'different'! Haha! Don't worry, we had fun and laughed the whole 6 hours! :-D
Now we're better and spend our time meeting up with friends. It's funny how a lot of people we met along the way turn up here in Goa. Some of them we haven't seen for 3 or 4 weeks and here they are. And now that Goa is becoming Goa again it's fun hanging out together.
Yeah, for a day or 3 (of which we slept 2, thank god) Goa was a bit too much. Rich Indian men come here to spend New Year and they are disgusting. They drink a lot even tough they can't handle their liquor and start talking dirty, there were fights... but all of a sudden they've all disappeared! And Goa is free of them again. The roads are emptier again, the bars are decent again... yep, Goa is getting back to it's normal rhythm and that's good. I'm used to that rhythm now. I learned to block out the Russians. So I like that rhythm now... It's slow and easy so I don't really have that much to tell you, except that I'm in a really good place and I'm loving the New Year.
So Happy New Year everybody!!
xxx

Gokarna - Goa

After spending 3 days in Gokarna, we really had to get moving. It was hard, because Gokarna is so peaceful! All we did was have breakfast, go for a swim in the sea, have lunch, go for a swim, have dinner, play cards... that's pretty much it. For 3 whole days, this was my schedule and I enjoyed every second of it! Gokarna is only 3 hours away from Goa and a part of me doesn't understand why people go to Goa instead of Gokarna, but a part of me is very happy because we wouldn't want Gokarna to become as busy as Goa.
So on Friday it was time to go. We had to be in Goa by Christmas-eve because Devika had to meet up with her family. We left Gokarna, took a crappy local train to Madgaon and then another train to Thivim. From there we had to take a taxi to Assagao - Badem. We took an expensive pre-paid taxi and even tough he told us he knew the way, he didn't know it at all! Liar! We had to ask several times and so the drive took a bit longer. The idiot wanted extra pay for this, but we refused. He knew where we wanted to go, he said he knew the way... everything else is his fault, his responsibility! And he wasn't even friendly!!
Just in time, around 3PM, we arrived at the flat and my god... this must be what heaven feels like. The flat is light and bright, it has clean and soft sheets, a real washing machine, a big hot shower, we can make our own coffee and tea, our own muesli in the morning... waw! It felt like home straight away! The rooms were for the couples (Nick and Lana, Adriano and Nora) and Devika and me slept on a mattress in the living room. But I couldn't care less, all I wanted was one of those hot perfect showers! Yeah!
After Devika and her family left, we went to the beach in Baga to have a Christmas meal. We were really tired and after drinking just one cocktail and one beer, we were ready to head back. It was a quiet Christmas-eve, but it was all we needed; a good meal, a few drinks and good company!
The next day I met up with my German friend Matthias. We met in a cafe in Anjuna and while we were sitting there and chatting with each other, an old Dutch hippie-ish man sat down at our table. He was drunk and ordered another whiskey. We didn't know him and after he dominated our conversation and started talking dirty to me and Lana, we asked him to leave our table. He did, sat at another table for a while and finally left without paying. So they chased him down the street and made him come back to pay his bill. He didn't have any money and all of a sudden this older Indian man gets up from his table behind us and approaches the Dutch man. He starts shouting at him that he has to pay, this is India and he should respect this country and that as an Indian he can not tolerate how he was disrespecting women (meaning me and Lana) and finally he slapped him twice and poured his coke over him. WOW! An Indian man sticking up for us! The hippie had it coming and none of us felt bad about what happened. Tourists think they can come to India and get away with everything, well, this day an Indian man took it upon himself to let everyone know that you can NOT get away with everything, and if you act like an animal you will be treated as one! Amen!!
Unfortunately he stands alone in his fight. Only a few hours after this we found ourselves in another situation that kind of proved that you CAN get away with almost anything. We have a car in the flat and Devika has been cruising around Goa with it. At an intersection the Police stopped us and asked for her drivers license and the papers of the car. The car is private, but the parents rent it... first mistake; you can not rent a private car and so they were gonna keep the car until the owner came to get it. Then they wanted the papers that we couldn't find... second mistake. Then they asked for a drivers license which Devika didn't bring, but she handed them the one from Nora...third mistake. Wow, if this was Europe we could forget about the rest of our day! But Thank God this is India... Incredible India... and after slipping 500 roepies (not even 10 Euro) to the Police, they gave back the license and let us drive on. As if nothing happened! Everything under control!!
Well, Goa doesn't feel like India but it sure as hell is. The Indian man slapping a tourist, bribing police... it is all so typical India! And these things all happened within a few hours. That's what makes India fascinating, and tiring at the same time. Anyway, I'm still in Goa and we are still cruising with the car. ;-)
Second day here I met up with Annemie and Patrick from Belgium and had a few drinks. That was really nice, to have some company that I knew from back home. You don't have to explain to them who you are and what you're doing and that's a nice change.
I also spent a day with Devika and her family. Her aunt was throwing a party and since Nick and Lana left for Thailand, they invited me to join them. I would have been fine doing something on my own, but they insisted. It was really really nice; beautiful house, big garden, amazing food... this is India the way we tourists don't really get to see it. It's the India from the Middle to Upper class Indians. As real as the beggars, but it couldn't be more opposite! Well, I personally enjoyed it and it was really interesting to be here.
The day before yesterday I was feeling so tired that I stayed in bed and slept till 5 in the afternoon. I got up to shower, get dressed and go eat, but at midnight I went back to sleep. I think the tiredness was getting to me. Not from traveling, but the impressions, the senses-overload. Spending the day in the flat was so relaxing; for the first time since I arrived almost two months ago there were absolutely no stimuli; no noises, no smells, no hassling, no traffic, no nothing, just peace and quietness! I guess I needed that!
Since yesterday it's just Devika and me and so we took a holiday day; swimming in the sea and shopping! Ha! And the next few days will be more of that! We haven't gone out to party yet and I don't know if we will. We are both sleeping a lot and party is not really what is on our mind. But maybe we'll have to put in an effort tomorrow for New Years Eve. We'll see first if we can stay awake that long! ;-)